Hard Routes
Went climbing tonight. It was a good thing that I took last night off as I was pretty tired. Muscles had a chance to relax. Actually, I rode on my trainer for an hour last night. It was pretty good -- I should do that the nights I don't go climbing. Probably should get up to the point where I ride for an hour and climb on the same day.
Nywase, I went climbing tonight planning on doing just bouldering routes. But Mike asked to top rope so I decied I'd try a couple of the new routes that were put up. Warmed up on a 5.10a and then got up a 5.11a. It was way kewl!! Quite a good route. Hard tho!! I fell half way up trying to figure out a move where it starts on the overhang. But I managed to get back onto the wall and worked out the problem. The lay back at the top was super fun but it sure pumped my arms. And the last move -- a cross move onto the roof. It was hard but I wasn't going to give up at that point! A quick heal hook and a push off my other foot and I was at the top. w00p!
Then I decided to give another go at a V3+ that I had tried the past two times. Last time I made it all the way to the last move, hit a hold on the way to the top and just couldn't stick the top. Tonight I hopped on it after Candice gave it another go. She's been working it since I showed it to her. Dan, her climbing partner got up it almost first try. So I hopped on it tonight and had absolutely no problems -- got right to the end and stuck it just fine.
Then I decided to try a V3 that I had just noticed earlier in the evening. I had my mocs on earlier and didn't feel real comfortable sticking onto the teeny holds that were at the crux. I had worked the beginning tho. So I hopped up there and worked the crux. Fell once and then did *something* different (I still don't know what) and was able to stick it out and make it to the top. Sat down and rested for 2 minutes (I only had 8 minutes before they closed). So I hopped on it from the beginning, hoping that I would remember what I had done differently (a true boulderer doesn't remember what they did 6 moves ago -- and it sure was true of me tonight!). Anywase, my body remembered even if my brain didn't and I got up to the top (and yes, Rob, the person who set the climb saw it -- so I had my impartial witness).
Finished up the climb with a "easy" V1++ -- yes, it got another +. It was "Energizer Bunny" -- a climb that is easily as long as any of the top rope climbs. The big trick for that one (at least with me) is to just not stop. There is a point in the middle where you *could* take a break. But as soon as I do I burn out my reserve energy -- I might get to relax one arm at a time when I do that, but the other arm is just burning energy. So just don't stop and I can power right through the climb.
Then it was 10pm and time to go. So thanks to Mike for belaying me!! I probably wouldn't have gotten any bouldering climbs without it.
Jason -- you need to get out of the office and into the gym!! For your sanity at least!!
Guess thats about it -- thank god tomorrow (or now) is Friday.
--B--
Posted by BBBach at
12:02 AM