Climbing Kicks Ass
Welp -- went climbing with Jason tonight. It was fun. Started out bouldering a couple V0's and then worked up to a V2- and worked a bit on a V1+ that I've been having problems with.
Glanced over at the V3 I had completed and decided that I would wait for another day to climb it again. I went on and asked Brian (one of the guys who works there) about what the requirements for one of the climbs was. It said "rails are on" and I wasn't sure if it was for feet only or for hands as well. It was for hands and that made a much easier climb.
However one of the rails had broken so that made it closer to a 5.10d (it was marked a 5.10c). At least thats what I was told. I hoofed it up the climb with much less effort then I had last time I had tried (not knowing that the rails were on). There were a couple of tricky moves close to the top but I made it up.
Jason cimbed a couple -- flashing a 5.8 (very good for him!!) and making it most of the way up another 5.8. To warm back up I climbed the 5.8 he hadn't completed and then moved on to a 5.11a.
Again I got some tips from Brian (they call it "beta" in the climbing world -- when you get tips on how to climb something before starting on it). This one had some wierd smearing moves right at the beginning with a nice lunge to a sloaper ending the smear moves. It was quite difficult to stick but I managed to get it eventually (two or three times). I made it several moves on and then hit another hard spot faltering for a shorter time.
Upwards again I went and made it to the next to last hold where again I was faced with a big move to a sloper. In fact it was sloper holds most of the way up -- thats what made it so difficult. So that next to last move took me a couple more tries. In fact I was pretty wasted by the so it took several trys to even get back to the same point I had been at. But at last I stuck it. Then it was just the last move to the top. Another big move but the sloper I had a hard time sticking was an upside down pocket. Okay -- so it was like a two finger edge -- but it felt like a pocket after all the other slopers! Flipped my hand upside down and cranked on it and *bang* was at the top.
It just kicked ass!
Followed that up by a nice relaxing break letting Jason climb while I belayed him and then a traverse during which I made it one wall farther then I normally make it. All in all a successfull evening.
So thats all thats new here right now. Don't know whats going on this weekend but probably a relaxing evening tomorrow and not doin' much of anything during the weekend days. Maybe get out on some real rock?? Maybe just hang low and sleep in!
L8tz all!
--B--
Posted by BBBach at
11:11 PM
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