Good Bouldering Routes!
Missy went off to go to a Sharks game tonight so I'm fending for myself tonight.
Had pasghetti tonight for dinner. It was good. Used some of Missy's pasghetti sauce nad it was just way nummy!
Went climbing after that. Vertex, the gym that I climb at, is having a bouldering comp this weekend so they had pulled ALL the bouldering routes down yesterday. They had set somewhere between 5 and 10 routes. Not many -- but they were all VERY good climbs. I started with a quick traverse (well two of them) to warm up. Then moved on to the new routes.
I started with the two V0's and a climb just rated V. They were good climbs. So I moved on to the V1's -- there were quite a few of these. I think there were 4. I flashed those and then moved on to the V2's. There were three of those (?) -- only one was really hard -- the other two felt like V1+'s. Then it was on to the only V3 set.
Now this one was hard. Just out and out hard. I worked the beginning, then the middle, then the end. It went -- it just went hard. I got the beginning down farely well. In fact the guy who had set it (he mentioned his name which I of course promptly forgot) said that he like my hand work much better -- fewer moves -- saving energy.
I worked the problem and managed to get the top part but it was just so much work! The guy who set it gave me some beta about a couple of the moves -- there was a great heel-hook that saved tons of energy in the steep overhanging section. I managed to do that move and get to the end with energy to spare so I sat down for a bit and then hopped back on it. This time from the beginning.
Up I went -- move after move -- hands here, feet there. Left hand up, right hand up, feet up. Left hand up, heel-hook -- whats that? Cramp in the calf?? No way man -- I'm not letting that stop me. Up and over the lip -- up to the sloper holds. Okay -- now last move -- I can get it! I swing up to the top and my fingers curl over the edge -- but I'm not high enough -- I fall to the floor (well, actually onto the mat, but thats close enough).
Dammit!! I was pissed. I had 10 minutes left before they closed up. I went and drank some water and sat down for about 3 minutes and decided to give it one more go before the evening was over.
I'm feeling a little rushed as I hop on the route. The beginning is a bitch -- in fact the entire route is a bitch. But the first move is from a sit start and those are always harder -- and up to a little pincher hold -- *ugh*. I make the first moves very fast and take some deep breaths to slow myself down. I don't want to pop off the moves coming up. I get the footwork correct this time -- saving arm strength by using my feet wisely.
I get up to the small teeny tiny edgy hold and stick it -- then bump up to the sloper. I bump with my right hand to avoid having to match on the sloper -- especially since the next hold is another sloper that I *do* have to match on. I stick the first sloper, get my left hand up to the next sloper. My feet stick on the holds -- better then the previous time where they popped off, again wasting valuable arm strength.
The last move is a big swingy move up to the top. Froma sloper. And a screw on for one foot. You know what that means? That means that our good rule of thumb, keeping three points of contact on the wall at all times, gets thrown out the window. I flag a foot under me, get way under the sloper, swing once, decide I wouldn't make it so I get back down low again. Swing twice, right hand goes flying out, and *BAM* -- I hit it. I stuck it. I got up to the top without falling. w000000p
Nywase, not much else was new tonight. I updated oldbrowsers.org a bit more -- started my browser history section. This section will probably go under many revisions -- right now I'm still in the fact gathering/layout phase. Check out the beginnings of the history page! The link (as usual) is:
http://oldbrowsers.org/oldbrowsers/
And last but not least! Big thanks to Rachel and Terry for the way kewl shirt!! Yes, I guess you could call me a Ricky Rock Rat (I looked for images online but couldn't find any so ya'll will have to wait for me to be wearing it and have the camera around!!).
Enjoy!
--B--
Posted by BBBach at
11:26 PM
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