November 09, 2002
Broken Hold Images

Finally got a couple pictures up of my fourth broken climbing hold. Why is this such a big deal? I don't know!! I think it's cause I hardly ever see anyone else breaking any holds. In fact to my knowledge I've never seen *anyone* break a hold.

So here they are:
Broken Hold #4

Enjoy!
--B--

Posted by BBBach at 11:42 AM
I Wanna Play with the Babies!!

I'm slumbering away this morning when Missy comes in and wakes me up and goes "Guess what I have?!" I wake up not quite sure whats going on and in missy's arms she has one of the stray kittens that we had been trying to catch. There were two left after we had caught Grumpy and his brother.

Missy had come downstairs and had seen one of the kittens run under our futon. She went over and shut the sliding glass door and looked under the futon. *Both* baby kittens were under the futon.

So once again we have kittens in the house. Squeeek wanted out immediately after I got up and I'm not sure how zOrg will take it. But they sure are cute!! I am pretty sure that they are both little girls. The all black one we have named "Marie" and the other we have named "Lurk". They are about the size that zOrg was when we caught him -- probably 3-5 months old.

Lurk has a full tail and Marie has this inch long stub. I'll try and get some pictures up later today!

--B--

Posted by BBBach at 11:12 AM

November 08, 2002
Hard Routes

Went climbing tonight. It was a good thing that I took last night off as I was pretty tired. Muscles had a chance to relax. Actually, I rode on my trainer for an hour last night. It was pretty good -- I should do that the nights I don't go climbing. Probably should get up to the point where I ride for an hour and climb on the same day.

Nywase, I went climbing tonight planning on doing just bouldering routes. But Mike asked to top rope so I decied I'd try a couple of the new routes that were put up. Warmed up on a 5.10a and then got up a 5.11a. It was way kewl!! Quite a good route. Hard tho!! I fell half way up trying to figure out a move where it starts on the overhang. But I managed to get back onto the wall and worked out the problem. The lay back at the top was super fun but it sure pumped my arms. And the last move -- a cross move onto the roof. It was hard but I wasn't going to give up at that point! A quick heal hook and a push off my other foot and I was at the top. w00p!

Then I decided to give another go at a V3+ that I had tried the past two times. Last time I made it all the way to the last move, hit a hold on the way to the top and just couldn't stick the top. Tonight I hopped on it after Candice gave it another go. She's been working it since I showed it to her. Dan, her climbing partner got up it almost first try. So I hopped on it tonight and had absolutely no problems -- got right to the end and stuck it just fine.

Then I decided to try a V3 that I had just noticed earlier in the evening. I had my mocs on earlier and didn't feel real comfortable sticking onto the teeny holds that were at the crux. I had worked the beginning tho. So I hopped up there and worked the crux. Fell once and then did *something* different (I still don't know what) and was able to stick it out and make it to the top. Sat down and rested for 2 minutes (I only had 8 minutes before they closed). So I hopped on it from the beginning, hoping that I would remember what I had done differently (a true boulderer doesn't remember what they did 6 moves ago -- and it sure was true of me tonight!). Anywase, my body remembered even if my brain didn't and I got up to the top (and yes, Rob, the person who set the climb saw it -- so I had my impartial witness).

Finished up the climb with a "easy" V1++ -- yes, it got another +. It was "Energizer Bunny" -- a climb that is easily as long as any of the top rope climbs. The big trick for that one (at least with me) is to just not stop. There is a point in the middle where you *could* take a break. But as soon as I do I burn out my reserve energy -- I might get to relax one arm at a time when I do that, but the other arm is just burning energy. So just don't stop and I can power right through the climb.

Then it was 10pm and time to go. So thanks to Mike for belaying me!! I probably wouldn't have gotten any bouldering climbs without it.

Jason -- you need to get out of the office and into the gym!! For your sanity at least!!

Guess thats about it -- thank god tomorrow (or now) is Friday.

--B--

Posted by BBBach at 12:02 AM

November 07, 2002
Candles?

I've heard of using candles for light, pleasure, and torture. But I've never heard of them being used for *this* type of thing.

For those days when things aren't flowing as smoothly as they should:
http://www.buttcandle.com/

Posted by BBBach at 04:08 PM

November 05, 2002
Broken Holds!!

Broked another hold tonight. Was about halfway up a 5.10c when I hear a loud crack down near my feet. A hold under my feet had snapped. I managed to stick it out tho. I don't know how I managed it -- I think I was standing on the bolt which was now sticking out about half an inch from the wall. I quickly got off it and made it to the top.

Managed to keep this hold so I'll take some high quality pictures!!

w00p!
Four holds now -- and counting!
I've got to be part of an elite group now!!!

--B--

Posted by BBBach at 10:44 PM

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