December 19, 2002
V4? Seemed easy!

Okay -- it wasn't easy. But it wasn't super hard. Someone pointed out a V4 that I had not seen before and I decided, for a lack of other interesting bouldering problems, to attempt it tonight. Got on it after a quick warmup (A couple V0's up and down, a V1, and then a V3 cause Dan wanted to see how I did it). Quickly found the crux move and sat down to think about it for a bit. I decided I had done the hands correctly -- just needed to work out the feet (they cut out from under me).

Got up, made it one move farther and my feet cut again. Tried it a couple more times and then decided to think it through again. Dan and Candice worked it with me so I was able to see what did and didn't work (Dan is about the same "build" as me so he's a great climber to watch). I got up there and made one more move but fell again after not being able to see below the lip (it was on an overhang) and I couldn't see where to put my feet.

I ate a Tigers Bar, climbed a V2, climbed the "unrated" V3 (it's not rated yet but a couple better climbers then me have said it's a hard V3 -- possibly easy V4) for Dan (got it first try *yah*!). Decided to give it one more shot and it sent like it was easy or something. I just used my feet. And actually really used 'em. Amazing how much easier it makes things when you use 'em!

So I finished the evening up with an attempt at the "Bunny" up and down -- made it onto the finishing wall and fell... so close! So I decided to do it up once more and then it was ten -- time to jet.

All in all a good evening of climbing -- again.
Think I'll go Sunday, Monday, and depending on when I get off work, maybe Tuesday (they close at 4pm being that it's christmas eve and all). Then several days off to let my body "heal"

w00p!
--B--

Posted by BBBach at 10:58 PM | Comments (0)

December 18, 2002
Just Plain Stupid

These people believe that the name of the movie/book, Lord of the Rings: Two Towers should be renamed to be more respectfull to those events that happened over a year ago on September 11th. Give me a freakin' break.

*sigh*
Build day today... oh yay.

--B--

Posted by BBBach at 09:26 AM | Comments (0)

December 17, 2002
The Bunny Is Dead!

aka I killed the Rabbit!

"Energizer Bunny" -- it's a boldering route at Vertex. It was originally rated a V1 -- then got bumped to a V1+ -- then to a V1++. Why? It's long. Super long. And V1 moves all the way. Without going above 15 feet, the number of moves is the same number as one of the 30ft walls.

So my original goal was to get to the top. I did that on my fifth or sixth try. It's just stamina -- the moves were all fairly simple. But the majority (minus three moves at the beginning and two moves at the end) is all overhanging. So my next goal was to get to the top and then back down to the beginning.

Going down is always harder. A lot more concentration and strength is required for downward movement (at least controlled downward movement). So tonight I get on it -- I hadn't tried it in a couple of weeks as it was missing decent feet at the bottom (this wasn't a problem going up but coming down it was a problem). So last night I got on it and fell at the lowest point (it's really a roof thats about 4 feet off the ground at that point - then it goes back around and ends).

Tonight I got on it -- not expecting to get all the way down. I got to the top and decided to work my way down. As I was working my way down I saw someone else coming up -- so I had to hang out for a couple seconds until they fell and then I continued on my downward path. One big move at the roof and then I was around the corner. On I went and was breathing hard. I was having to really concentrate on putting my feet on holds and making them stay. Past my previous far point -- on the last roof-like section -- over to the ending wall... only three moves left ... trying to not listen to everyone there telling me that I was almost done ... crappy ending feet with a long strech ... move ... move ... right hand on the starting hold -- feet over .... left hand on the starting hold -- stick it -- stick it ... collapse on the ground.

I have now done "the bunny" up and down. Thats quite an accomplishment as I know of only two other people who have attempted it (and only one that completed it).

yay!

I also did the V3 (still not rated...) that I did last night...

All in all it was a good evening of climbs. But I'm gonna be REALLY sore tomorrow.

L8tz all!
--B--

Posted by BBBach at 09:55 PM

December 16, 2002
Strong Climbing

It's been a while since I've only climbed for an hour. Normally I'm there for two (or slightly more). However tonight I was limited to an hour -- not that this was a bad thing.

I got to the gym with Missy and did a couple quick warmup climbs. A couple quick laps on a V0- (it says all feet but doing it track up, track down, screw-ons up, and screw-ons down make a good warmup) -- a V0, a V0+, and then I hopped on a V1+.

Then Dan, I think his name's Dan -- I can't ever remember names ... Nywase, he's normally there on Tuesday's and Thursday's with Candace. But he was there tonight... they had set a couple new bouldering routes on the steep overhang section... and he was working on an unrated climb -- someone else there said it was probably around V3ish. He was getting about two moves into the climb and falling -- it's one of those wierd technical/strength climbs.

I hopped on and stuck the move he was falling on but couldn't quite hit the next move. Big throws on overhangs just don't get along well together. At least not for me. However I hopped on it a couple more times and was always able to get through an ugly hand match but not quite able to get to the next hold.

I sat down for a bit -- drank some water, looked at the new climbs on the slab wall -- and decided to give it one more try -- not expecting to make it. This was probably try number 4 or 5 (when you are bouldering you loose track really quick-like). So I hopped on it -- got to the same point and my foot slipped off. I decided not to give up and put my foot back on -- only instead of outside of the foot on the hold, the inside of the foot on the hold. I did the throw move and stuck it!! I was so ecstatic that I almost didn't know what to do from there! It was like -- I've looked at this one move and not the rest of the climb -- oh crap!

But I moved my feet out, stuck the next hold, swung like a monkey, moved feet up, and stuck the move to the top of the climb!! I was so happy!!! Yay!!! w00p!!! Joy of joys!!!

Or something like that.

It was almost time to go so I decided to try Energizer Bunny up and down. Since they had reset the big overhang section there wasn't much for feet there -- at least nothing that was sticking it's ugly fake-rock-head out at me. I made it to the end and started back. On the way down I just wasn't thinking very clearly and at the bottom section where it gets real low my feet just slipped off the holds they were on and I ended up on my knees. Oh well -- next time!! At least now I know that there are enough feet at the beginning to be attempting it up and down again.

All in all? A very good one hour of climbing. In fact I'm hoping that I won't be sore tomorrow -- it was that much work in those few short climbs.

Our double secret probation project is nearly finished -- not quite ready for unveiling yet -- but soon!

Oh yah -- and I need to get a picture of missy driving her rental vehicle (her car is in the body shop). What'd they give her? A bimbo box! Every one take a moment (long or short -- doesn't matter) to laugh in her general direction. HAH!!

Climb tomorrow. Build Wednesday. Climb thursday. Friday!! Go to see Toad on Saturday (and Gretchen and Chris cause I'm not sticking around for Counting Crows). Climb Sunday -- then it's almost Christmas!! w00p!

--B--

Posted by BBBach at 10:52 PM

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